Culture · Community · Regenerative
Seyviaka: Kogui indigenous community
A day in the Kogui village of Seyviaka, with the mamo's family, upriver from Palomino.
Full dayDifficulty: Moderate
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Beach and river town
Palomino
Where the Sierra Nevada reaches the sea to the east: a long beach, a cold river off the glacier and the gateway to Kogui territory.
- Region:
- La Guajira
- From La Jorará:
- 10 km
Palomino is the first town in La Guajira coming from Santa Marta, at the point where the Sierra Nevada comes closest to the sea on its eastern flank. It has two things that rarely go together: a long grey-sand beach with heavy surf, and a cold river running straight down from the glaciers.
For years it was a small town of fishermen and farmers. The arrival of backpacker tourism turned it into a mixed place, with hostels, restaurants and a busy main street, without it ceasing to be the starting point towards the mountain.
That last part matters most. From Palomino runs the path to Seyviaka, a Kogui village upriver where the mamo's family lives, and it is the most direct access there is to the Sierra communities' territory from this side.
Palomino also marks a cultural boundary: to the west lie Magdalena and the Sierra; to the east begins La Guajira, the desert and Wayuu territory.
What to see and do
The Palomino River
It runs cold down from the Sierra Nevada and reaches the Caribbean right beside the town. You can walk its banks, swim in the pools, or float down to the sea on an inner tube, which is the town's classic outing.
Seyviaka, a Kogui village
A two-hour walk upriver through dense jungle to the home of mamo Agustín. It is a genuine visit: you enter the indigenous houses, share lunch and talk about mythology and customs. Anyone who wishes can receive an aseguranza, a spiritual protection the mamo prepares.
The beach
Kilometres of sand with palm trees and very little building towards either end. It is a beach for walking, watching the sunrise and lying in a hammock, not for swimming: the surf is heavy and there are rip currents.
The gateway to La Guajira
Palomino is the last comfortable stop before the desert. From here run the trips to the Los Flamencos Sanctuary at Camarones and, further on, to Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas in the Alta Guajira.
How to get there
- It sits on the Troncal del Caribe highway, 10 km from La Jorará and about 85 km from Santa Marta.
- There are frequent buses from Santa Marta along the Troncal: about two hours.
- From Riohacha it is about 65 km to the west, a little over an hour.
- From La Jorará it is ten minutes by car or local bus.
- The turn-off into town from the highway is short; the beach is about twenty minutes on foot from the main road.
When to go
- December to March, dry season: the river is clearer and the town livelier.
- July and August bring good weather and fewer people than high season.
- In the rainy season, September to November, the river rises considerably and the float can be suspended for safety.
- The walk to Seyviaka runs all year, but in the rains the trail gets slippery and the river crossing trickier.
What to know before you go
- The sea at Palomino is not for a relaxed swim: the surf is heavy and there are rip currents. Go in carefully and do not swim out.
- The river, on the other hand, is safe and is where people actually bathe.
- The Seyviaka tour starts and ends in Palomino, and does not include transport to the town.
- It is a two-hour walk each way to the Kogui community. This is not a short stroll: wear closed shoes and bring water and a hat.
- In indigenous territory, ask for consent before photographing. And one useful word: anchica breaks the ice with any Kogui.
- Cash machines are scarce and not always working. Arrive with cash.
Frequently asked questions
What is there to do in Palomino?
Float down the river to the sea on an inner tube, walk to the Kogui village of Seyviaka, watch the sunrise on the beach, and use it as a base for trips to the Los Flamencos Sanctuary and La Guajira. Two days covers the essentials.
Can you swim at Palomino beach?
With caution. There is heavy surf and rip currents, and no lifeguards. Most people swim in the river, which is cold, clear and calm, and use the beach for walking and watching the sunset.
What is the difference between the Palomino and Don Diego rivers?
Both come down from the Sierra Nevada and both are floated. The Palomino is right by the town and is the more social outing, with more people. The Don Diego is 16 km to the west, runs through denser jungle, offers better howler monkey and bird spotting, and ends at a virgin beach with no buildings.
What we run here
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Nature · Culture · Community
Los Flamencos Sanctuary and Wayuu ranchería
Pink flamingos from a dugout canoe and a day with a Wayuu family at their ranchería.
Full dayDifficulty: Easy
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Nature · Active · Community
Tubing on the Don Diego River
Float down from the mountain to the Caribbean Sea, among howler monkeys and birds.
3 to 4 hoursDifficulty: Easy
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Where to stay
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Palomino · La Guajira
Casa Mahatma
A whole house in the town of Palomino, with an equipped kitchen, garden and hammock terrace. Ten minutes from La Jorará.
House4–6 guestsGarden view
FromCOP 220,000per night
La Jorará Eco Hotel · Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta
Casa del Mar
A cabin facing the Caribbean, with the sound of the sea in front and the Sierra Nevada behind.
Cabin1–4 guestsSea view
FromCOP 520,000per night
La Jorará Eco Hotel · Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta
Morro Paraíso
High on the headland, looking out over the Caribbean and the Sierra Nevada rainforest at once.
Cabin2–6 guestsSea view
FromCOP 560,000per night
Nearby destinations
Our home
La Jorará
Km 62.5 on the Santa Marta – Palomino road: a private beach, a natural mountain-water pool and a fruit plantation, between Tayrona Park and Palomino.
Magdalena · Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta
7 experiences here
Sierra Nevada river
Don Diego River
A river born in the glaciers of the Sierra Nevada that ends in the Caribbean, with howler monkeys in the canopy and a virgin beach at its mouth.
Magdalena6 km from La Jorará
3 experiences here
Flora and fauna sanctuary
Camarones and the Los Flamencos Sanctuary
Coastal lagoons where Colombia's pink flamingos gather, explored by Wayuu dugout canoe, at the gateway to La Guajira.
La Guajira80 km from La Jorará
1 experience here