Nature · Culture · Community
Punta Gallinas and Cabo de la Vela
The northern tip of South America: dunes, cliffs and nights in a Wayuu chinchorro.
2 nights / 3 daysDifficulty: Moderate
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The northern tip of South America
Alta Guajira
Desert ending in cliffs above the Caribbean, dunes that fall onto the beach, and Wayuu territory, at the northernmost point of the continent.
- Region:
- La Guajira
- From La Jorará:
- 265 km
The Alta Guajira is the corner where South America runs out. Punta Gallinas is literally the northernmost point of the continent: plateaus, dunes and rocky cliffs rising from the sea and embracing Hondita Bay, with exotic beaches and belts of mangrove.
The landscape looks like nothing else in Colombia. It is real desert — cactus, goats, sand and constant wind — that suddenly opens onto a turquoise sea. At Taroa the dunes fall straight onto the beach; at Cabo de la Vela the Pilón de Azúcar rises above golden sand and the lighthouse delivers one of the country's most memorable sunsets.
All of this is Wayuu territory, the largest indigenous people in Colombia. Life here is woven around fishing, herding, the making of mochilas and chinchorros, and a social organisation of its own that remains in force. You do not visit the desert without engaging with that: you sleep in the communities, eat what they prepare and travel with Wayuu drivers and guides.
This needs saying plainly: it is a demanding adventure route without the comforts of conventional tourism. Those who understand that before setting out come back delighted.
What to see and do
Punta Gallinas
The northern tip of South America, marked by a lighthouse on the cliffs. Around it, Hondita Bay, Puerto Bolívar, Punta Soldado, and a sense of world's end that is hard to explain until you are standing in it.
The Taroa dunes
Sand dunes that drop straight into the sea. You climb up on foot and come down running or sliding all the way to the shore. It is the most photographed landscape in La Guajira, and deservedly so.
Cabo de la Vela
A Wayuu fishing village facing the sea, the classic base for the route. Here are the Pilón de Azúcar with its golden-sand beaches, the Kamaichi hill — a sacred Wayuu site — and the lighthouse, where everyone goes to watch the sunset.
The Manaure salt flats
Evaporation ponds producing a good share of Colombia's salt, with white mountains against the sky. You pass through on the way to the Cabo, along with Uribia, considered the country's indigenous capital.
How to get there
- Trips start in Riohacha, the capital of La Guajira, which has an airport.
- From Riohacha to Cabo de la Vela is about four hours by 4x4, much of it on unpaved track.
- From Cabo de la Vela to Punta Gallinas you continue by 4x4 and, on some stretches, by boat across the bay.
- From La Jorará to Riohacha is about 165 km. Cabo de la Vela is 265 km from the estate and Punta Gallinas 365 km.
- You do not get there in a private car or by public transport: the route requires a 4x4 and a driver who knows the territory.
When to go
- December to April, dry season: this is when the tracks are passable and the desert shows itself at its purest.
- The strongest winds blow between December and March. Great for kitesurfing at the Cabo, uncomfortable for sand in your face.
- In the rainy season, September to November, some tracks become impassable and several operators suspend the route.
- The Carrizal desert is only seen at its driest during the summer months.
What to know before you go
- Water is scarce. Bring a flask or canteen and do not count on long showers.
- Electricity comes from generators and solar panels, for a few hours at a time. Charge your devices when you can.
- There are no conventional hotels. You sleep in a chinchorro — the woven Wayuu hammock — or in basic cabins, in the communities you visit.
- The road is unpaved and dusty. Relentless sun and heat by day, cold at night: bring a light blanket.
- Biodegradable toiletries, sunscreen, UV sunglasses and a hat. The sun here does not forgive.
- Not recommended for small children or for older adults with chronic health conditions. There are health posts in Uribia, Manaure and Maicao, but the distances are long.
- You are travelling in Wayuu territory: ask consent before photographing and respect the sacred sites.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need for the Alta Guajira?
Two nights and three days is the standard format for reaching Punta Gallinas without rushing. There is a one-night, two-day version that only reaches Cabo de la Vela, good if time is short but it leaves out the Taroa dunes and the northern tip.
Is it safe to travel to La Guajira?
The tourist route is well established and travelled normally, always with local operators and drivers. What you should not do is venture out on your own in a private car: the distances are long, the tracks are unmarked, there is no signal for much of the way, and the territory has its own rules of access.
Where do you sleep in Punta Gallinas?
In Wayuu rancherías, in a chinchorro or in simple cabins with beds, depending on the operator and availability. It is basic accommodation, with no air conditioning and limited power. It is part of the experience, and the reason the money from the trip stays with the communities.
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